Welcome to the forums! I've started a new thread for your question, so that replies to you won't be confused with replies to the earlier question. I would use Soss hinges. They're invisible (no hinge pin above the floor), strong, and create less of a leaf effect. You might also want to taper, or slant, the side next to the pull.
Welcome to the forums! Now that you have had a non answer, I'll try to walk you through it. It may be that you only need the top closer. I found that out on my back door unit. By removing it, the door seemed to be less powerful to try and open. Granted both closers keep the door from racking but we have had no problems at all with ours. As far as the latching problem, do you notice the door getting just to the point of closing and then just sitting there? It could be the hinge side is not fastened properly. Did you install the screws directly into the jamb, as well as the ones on the outside? Those are the most important ones to keep the frame true to the jamb. Let us know what results you have. We'll keep digging if it doesn't clear things up.
Well you have two sets of holes, one too wide and one too short. The sweet spot is in the middle somewhere. I would take a pencil and scribe a line along the edge of the frame against the brick mold as it sits now. Remove those screws and rehang or tack in place where the original holes were and scribe a line. The middle of the two lines is where you probably need to be. Or..... Leave the frame loose and close the door. Take a shim(s) and position the frame so that it is equal distance off the door all the way along its length and screw it down. That way you know the door will clear the frame and also catch the latching mechanism.
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